Winter Coat 2010: Progress

I've made progress over the past two weeks.  Boy, I didn't realize how much hand work went into a tailored garment.  I didn't think I would enjoy all of the hand sewing but I actually find it quite relaxing.  How geeky does that sound! haha  But, I turned on music and sewed away.

These first three pictures show the point my coat was at this morning.  I have been working all day sewing, and never even turned the sewing machine on, haha. This is a new world to me!  I love the back of the coat.  It is so tailored and military-esque, and the box pleats are extremely flattering.

I sewed two single welt pockets, one of either side on the double breast front panels, and a flap for each.

I'm proud of the flaps because I was able to utilize the turn of cloth so no seams are showing on the edges.

Initially I was unsure how I wanted the pockets but I think this treatment works functionally and aesthetically.  Oh, this was the first time I had ever sewed a welt pocket.

This link from the Fashion Incubator Blog was amazing and helped tremendously.  My welts look great, even though it was my first time.

I worked all day hand sewing; basting the hair canvas to the front panels, and pad stitching the lapels, well one lapel.  Pad stitching really is like working magic.  The lapel folds perfectly now! I can't wait to see it finished!  Here is a picture of the one lapel I was able to finish the pad stitching on today.  This picture was taking right after steaming, and my iron spit out a little extra water.



This week my plan is to finish pad stitching, set in both sleeves, and at least begin hemming the coat.  I'm running out of time and getting a little nervous.  I only have three weeks left until my NYC trip!

Loathing...

I       LOATHE       SILK HABOTAI!

I remember writing about the silk being very thin and fragile in my last post, however, at that point, I had yet to wage a war against it.  Being a man, and sewing mens clothing, I do not have much any experience sewing silk.  I tried to interface, which only creased the silk onto the interfacing.  I tried to cut the silk out first, but by the time I carefully picked it up off the cutting mat and placed it on the ironing board it had already distorted out of shape.  After an inward debate, I decided to order a leopard print silk charmeuse for the lining.  I just hope I can wrangle the charmeuse and make it work.

Operation Winter Coat 2010: Muslin

I have completed the muslin of my winter coat.  The picture looks odd because I used up a small stash of flannel I was hoarding.

I decided to use the costume coat pattern, Simplicity 0806, with design and size alterations.  I expanded the waist measurement, leaving enough ease to compensate for the wool fashion fabric and lambs wool interlining.  I also drafted a new front vertical band and collar pattern.  I like the way the front band gives a distinct vertical line to the coat, hopefully elongating my body, although it will be the same fabric as the rest of the coat in the final coat.

One thing I love about this pattern are the box pleats on the back "skirt."

I received my fabric today in the mail.  I'm using a navy blue wool/cashmere, from fashionfabricsclub.com, for the outer fabric and a silk leopard print habotai, found on ebay, for the lining.  I'm also interlining the coat with lambs wool.

I'm realizing now that silk habotai may have not been the best pick for the lining.  It is extremely thin and fragile.  At this point, I'm not willing to invest in more fabric, plus I don't have the time to wait for the shipment before my NYC trip.  I'm going to try interfacing the silk with a lightweight interfacing.  I'm also underlining the silk with the interlining.  Time for experimentation.

I took the muslin apart tonight to use as the pattern.  Tomorrow I plan on taking the wool to the dry cleaner to have it steam ironed.

This week I will cut out all pattern pieces and have everything ready to begin.  I can't wait to start the tailoring process...I'm so excited!  What a nerd! haha

Do you know how a raven is like a writing desk?

Simplicity 0806

Happy Halloween!  I had such a great time sewing this costume and wearing it!  I made the jacket and vest, and shortened a pair of pants.  The rest of the costume was purchased.  Doesn't the make-up look amazing!  Thanks to my friend Laura!

Wow...I can't believe I haven't blogged since August.  I've started my new job and it has taken me a while to adjust to the demands, but I'm back now better than ever!

Remember this?  This is the finished Burda shirt I was working on last time I blogged.  It's hard to see the details in the picture.  It has matching blue buttons on the front placket and sleeve tabs, and gold buttons on the gun flap and epaulets.  I did a couple fitting changes and I think it worked out perfectly.

What's up next?  I'm in the planning and muslin stages of a winter coat. I'm going on a very anticipated vacation to NYC the week of Christmas, and since it's going to be freezing, I've decided to make a warm, winter coat.  Gertie, at www.blogforbettersewing.com, is a constant inspiration and has motivated me to tackle this big, quite overwhelming project.  I've decided to use the same pattern I used for the costume, but make some many fitting and design changes.  I'll post pictures of the muslin this week for suggestions.  Let me know what you think!

A little frogging this way...

I have been working on the "Waves of Leaves Shawl" and it is giving me a run for my money!  It's unfortunate, but my attention span can't keep constant count, and I keep losing my place.  OMG, imagine what I will be like in 50 years...that's an interesting ponder.  Anyways, I decided to frog back a couple of rows in order to fix my mistakes.  It was quite a dramatic event.  Doesn't it look like it could attack at any moment?

On another note, I did get a chance to add the second sleeve to my shirt.  Hopefully I will have time to finish it this week!

Marathon Sewing

After a FULL day of marathon sewing I actually have something to show!  Oh...you didn't know I only had one arm! ;-)

I'm especially proud of my collar and stand.  I own and have read David Page Coffin's book Shirtmaking, and I use his method of applying the collar and stand to the bodice.  However, his methods for easing the under collar and stand to the outer parts don't seem to give me a desired outcome.  On a side note, the lack in desirability is on due to my less than perfect sewing ability, not Coffin's techniques and book which are both amazing.

 

I learned a new technique where I shorten both bottom ends of the undercollar by 1/8"1/4", but keep the collar points the same length.  I also cut the under portion of the collar stand 1/8"-1/4" shorter on both ends.  When all sewn together it creates a nice smooth surface on the undercollar and stand, and helps the collar fold.

 

My weakness is still edgestitching the collar stand when the collar is in place.  My stand edges never meet up at the same place on both sides of the collar and my stitching line on the opposite side falls on and off of the stand.  Does anyone know a way to make sure the inside and outside stand edges are meeting at the exact same place? 

 

Overall, I'm happy with the outcome.  I can't wait to finish and wear it.  It will be my first, truly wearable shirt.  Fingers crossed!

And it begins....again

Another project has begun...imagine that!  This one I am determined to finish...SOON!  I'm excited about this shirt.  It is from Burda Magazine, March 2009 edition.  I searched for the technical drawing to add, but since burdafashion.com merged with burdastyle.com, I don't know how to find it anymore.  If you do, help me please!  Anyways, the shirt is a short sleeved safari-style shirt with lots of additional details like pocket, front yoke (gun flap), epaulettes, and sleeve tabs.  I plan on using all of the details in my design.

 

I'm going to use a beautiful blue (which is much brighter than the picture) Cotton Poplin I bought from Gorgeous Fabrics many months ago.  I am also mentally debating buttons.  I'm thinking matching blue buttons for the front button placket and pocket flap, and the gold-ish, bronze-ish buttons for the details.  Any suggestions?

A Jack of ALL Trades...but a Master of NONE!...but I"m getting there!

Lately, one thing in particular has been bothering me about myself.  Do you ever have those moments when you turn inward and discover something about yourself that perturbs you? 

After crafting nonstop I still feel that I have accomplished nothing.  I have no FOs to show for all of my work.  Let me share with you the list of objects I have been working on:

1.   I just finished taking a “Clone a RTW Garment” class on patternreview.com with Kenneth King.  I have created the pattern and made two muslins, however I haven’t created a “real” shirt.

2.  I planned on making a Burda WOF shirt to wear to my birthday party tomorrow night, however after stressing about the detail (fabric, thread, buttons, etc.) I never began sewing the shirt.  Although, I did fit the pattern and it’s ready to go!  One point for me!

3.  I have two knitting projects I’m in the middle of, however I’ve lost the motivation to work on either of them.

4.  I have taken up crocheting, and I’m addicted hooked!  I have been crocheting washcloths and dreaming of bigger projects.  I have finished one washcloth!  I believe that makes two points for me!

5.  I started a cross-stitch months ago that I lost interest in extremely quickly…not my thing I guess.  It sits in a drawer in my craft room taunting me continuously.

6.  Oh yeah, I also started the grand dream of a hand embroidered quilt about a year ago…I embroidered ONE square.

I wonder why my brain works in this strange way.  Some say its because I am a creative person.  Some say I lack follow through.  What do you think?  Am I alone?  I want to finish projects I start.  They are all amazing objects that I would love to have as a finished item, hence the reason I began crafting them.  I have refused to let my brain scour the internet for new and interesting patterns because I feel I must finish one of these listed above before starting something else…we’ll see.

How’s your crafting coming along?  Anything finished to share?